Revelations

Going through Tracy Arm to see two glaciers ("arm" is another term for fjord), I understand the native myths: Fog Woman who brought the Salmon and Raven who brought the Sun.

Cliffs towering over the ship, dwarfing it and us. Crevasses running deep, dividing slopes of rock carved by millions of glacier years - the gray crags broken only by patches of lichen and copse of tall spruce.

Dense white fog swirls around the summits - waterfalls of melting snow tumble into the arm's green water.

Ice flows of different shapes ("That one looks like a dragon!" Heather says as she snaps another picture - one of hundreds)float by. Every so often, if you listen closely, you can hear the effervescent fizz of ancient air escaping from ancient ice.

Heather and I stand on the deck; it's almost 9 PM and light is beginning to fade. I know she'll keep taking pictures until it's dark.

"This is the only religion you need," she sighs.

I nod. Fog Woman, Raven, Goddess and Jesus - all are here.
And the BEST part - so are we.